“Listen.” I hear the ice: the rustling crackle of the small floating pieces against our hulls; the swoosh-bang of water sloshing over a shelf on an iceberg; faint, distant crashes, muted to the point where direction was uncertain, only that it came from the frozen reaches of Icefjord. Paddling through the ice at Ilullisset Here … Continue reading In the Ice: Kayaking in the Arctic →